Sarlat, star of the Périgord Noir
Designated a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire for its rich heritage, Sarlat boasts over 70 listed monuments. Located between the famed Dordogne and Vézère valleys, the medieval town is a must-see in the Périgord Noir area. In fact, every year, almost two million visitors come to admire this town with its feel of the south. The eastern start point or end point for La Flow Vélo, Sarlat sets the tone for the whole cycle route. It’s not simply a picturesque stopover, it’s a magical one!
Sarlat’s remarkable heritage
Dismount to take in this town that is in fact like one great open-air museum, to be observed in detail. Superbly protected from modern additions thanks to a 1960s law, the Loi Malraux (made to protect and preserve exceptional French historic town centres), Sarlat is a marvel for those who appreciate fine architecture, and a fascinating place for history buffs. Wandering through its narrow, meandering lanes, you’ll enjoy the warm glow imparted by the local golden-yellow stone, so characteristic of the town and to be admired at every turn. With many half-timbered homes as well as striking civic and religious historic monuments, the historical atmosphere is palpable. Cyclists who enjoy heritage are in for a major treat.
Saint Sacerdos Cathedral
Built in the 12th century as an abbey church, then reconfigured as a cathedral when Sarlat was elevated to a bishop’s diocese in the 14th century, Saint Sacerdos Cathedral presents a mix of architectural periods, and proves a delight for interested cyclists to explore. The Romanesque belfry dates back to the times of the Benedictine abbey and is the oldest part of the whole edifice, while most of the building is in later Gothic style. Within, admire the majestic organ, from the 17th century. On certain Saturday mornings, you may be lucky enough to hear an organ recital, the melodies drifting out towards the market.
House of la Boétie
This fine 16th-century house looking onto one of Sarlat’s two main squares was where Étienne de la Boétie was born. The house was built in French Renaissance style. Étienne de la Boétie early developed into one of the great philosophers and lawyers of the French Renaissance, writing his Traité de la servitude volontaire, a tract against tyranny, in his teens, becoming one of the closest friends of the greatest French philosopher of the age, Michel de Montaigne. The house isn’t generally open to visitors, although the ground floor is occasionally open, on European Heritage Days and for the odd exhibition.
Sarlat, a culinary magnet
Foodie cyclists will be thrilled exploring culinary Sarlat for its special traditions and dishes. Bons viveurs will be in their element! The area’s terroir and its deep-rooted know-how is a delight for epicureans. There are many Périgord specialities to savour here, such as truffles, ceps (large wild mushrooms), foie gras, confits of duck and goose, pâtés and other fine country charcuterie.
Relish the fantastic mix of aromas and flavours to your tastebud’s content at the magnificent Sarlat market! It’s a great time to fill your bicycle panniers with produce too. Rendez-vous here either on Wednesday morning or on Saturday morning, on the Place de la Liberté. This square is the town’s lively epicentre, a wonderful reflection of périgourdin traditions and conviviality. It’s a great place to enjoy a break and gather your strength before you get on your bike again. Sampling such local dishes as gizzard salad or cabécou cheese, you’ll leave replete with local culture!
Sarlat hosts many festivals year-round that focus on local culinary traditions, including the Fête de la Truffe, plus dedicated culinary days, the Journées du Terroir. You might bear in mind such festivities to time the start or end of your cycling trip along La Flow Vélo accordingly!
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